Recent educational reforms in China have emphasized "learner autonomy", but this differs in crucial respects from the concept of "personal autonomy", which is a central goal of western liberal education. The many changes that have resulted from the opening up policy in China in the last 30 years include what has been called "regulated individualism", but moves towards individualism remain balanced by a recognition of interdependence and collectivism. Can autonomy take root in schools in these circumstances? The research reported in this article provides a snapshot of the situation in a senior high school in Beijing. It reveals that learner autonomy is currently hardly a reality at all in the classroom. Students show their desire for autonomy and manage the class activities for which they have responsibility with some degree of autonomy. The teacher also tends to accept the principle of learner autonomy, but finds her hands tied both by her own natural tendency to dominate the learning process (in accordance with traditional Chinese expectations of a teacher) and by the requirements of the University Entrance Examination.