This paper will explore some of the tensions that arise for Ghanaian headteachers in trying to resolve traditional and tribal expectations with "Western" conceptions of leadership roles and competencies. These are particularly acute in rural communities where expectations of school leaders often reflect, and are constrained by, ascribed status in the tribe or village. Gender issues illustrate these tensions as successive governments initiate strategies to ensure that gender equality concerns are integrated into all their policies and programmes. The starting point for this paper--the process of research itself--sets the scene for an exploration of a complex multi-faceted leadership culture.